Interstyle Glass Wall Tiles Installation Guidelines

Substrate Preparation – Since any crack in a glass tile is evident, we recommend the application of a crack isolation membrane (ANSI A118.12) over the entire surface. Many substrates such as mortar beds may continue to cure, shrink, and crack over a period of months, and a crack isolation membrane prevents shrinkage or movement of the substrate from transferring through to the tile.

Level imperfections in the substrate before the installation of the crack isolation membrane. If the installer omits the crack isolation membrane, neither the distributor nor the manufacturer will accept any responsibility for cracking. Install only over well-cured, stable substrates. Thin-set is not a proper leveling compound and should not be used to level the substrate under glass tile.

Allow for a control joint wherever substrates change and as prescribed in section EJ171 of TCNA’s Handbook for Ceramic, Glass, and Stone Tile Installation. (www.tcnatile.com).

Installation – Confirm color, size, and mounting of the entire batch of tiles before installation. Verify you received sufficient tile to complete the entire installation from a single batch (including extra tile to make up for losses due to cutting, breakage, and waste, usually 15%). Color matching of different tiles made at later production batches is not possible.

Pick the color of the thinset to minimize contrast with the colored tile. A best practice is to use a single source for setting materials, starting from a moisture barrier, crack isolation, thinset, and grout. Popular adhesive manufacturers test specific products for use with glass tile. Please refer to your preferred adhesive manufacturer’s documentation for an adhesive specifically formulated for glass tile interior and exterior wall installations. For pools and areas with frequent immersion, confirm the suitability of the moisture barrier and adhesive with the thin-set manufacturer. Ensure that the V-cap’s leading edge has been ground smooth to ensure a tight install.

Important note regarding swimming pools, hot tubs, steam rooms, and fountain applications: Pools and other submerged applications require face-mounted mosaics with film instead of back mesh-mounting.

Spread the adhesive with a notched trowel following the manufacturer’s recommendations (in many cases, a 3/16″ V-notch trowel or 1/4″ x 1/4″ works well). Use the flat side of the trowel to flatten the ridges without removing any thin-set. This step is crucial to prevent trowel marks from mirroring the surface. Use the thin-set manufacturer’s minimum recommended thickness of thin-set. Do not over-build the adhesive, as it may shrink and add stress that may crack the Glass over time. Spread only as much adhesive as will be covered with the tile within 15 minutes to maintain good adhesion.

Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel and strike down the notches with the flat side of the trowel before applying the mosaic. Larger format tiles should have a thin skim coat of thin-set applied to the back of the tile to reduce voids and improve adhesion. Firmly press the glass tile against the surface to eliminate gaps in the adhesive that may show through the glass tile.

Install glass tile on the wall leaving even spacing between tiles of at least 1/16″ (1.5mm). Use plastic spacers to maintain even spacing whenever possible. Install control joints where the tile abuts restraining surfaces and around the perimeter of the tile work as per TCNA guidelines.

Allow the adhesive to cure according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions (at least 24 hours). Choose grout that will not scratch the surface of the tile. If unsure, use unsanded grout.

Cutting –

• Have the appropriate tools. Glass can be cut into straight lines, gentle curves, compound cuts. It can have both large and small holes bored into it depending on the job’s requirements.
• Often a standard tile cutter may do the job for straight cuts. This technique is proper when cutting small mosaics set in sheets. Score and break the tile over a rubber mat to absorb the breaking impact. Montolit’s video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmIdKEu2gX4 illustrates this method.
• Break your Glass immediately after scoring. If allowed to sit too long, a scoreline will begin to develop fractures radiating along its entire length and weaken the score.
• A circular diamond glass cutting blade provides the most specific and economical method for cutting Glass. The correct blade will cut Glass easily and without chipping. The wrong blade will chip the color and heat the Glass, possibly causing it to break before the cut is complete. Montolit builds an excellent Glass tile blade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJGv02pwxdU
• Cut large tiles with a tile saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGp0re88I9Y
• Pro-tip: Orient the tile so that the blade rotates into the glazed side to minimize color chipping.
• Use plenty of water. Overheating will cause thermal shock and break the tile.
• Cold Glass becomes more challenging to cut. Comfortable room temperature conditions are favorable.
• Position your score so there is an equal mass of Glass on both sides of the score. Otherwise, the break below the scoreline will naturally move to the side where there is less Glass, resulting in an edge that flares.

Safety First

1. Use eye protection when dealing with Glass. Do not touch or rub your eyes while working with Glass.
2. Wear rubber gloves to protect your skin. Never hold Glass by the cut edge.
3. Try to predict what will happen to the Glass after cutting the tile – avoid loosing control of the glass, and if it is going to fall, let it fall, rather than trying to catch it.
4. Wear safety shoes with covered toes.
5. Ground silica dust can be hazardous to your health. Ensure a wet cutting environment to minimize dust.

Drilling – Drilling a hole requires a drill bit or coring bit designed specifically for Glass. Ensure that sufficient cooling water or liquid lubricant. If you cannot securely clamp the drill and tile, make a guide to assist alignment of the bit. Cut a quick guide out of a scrap piece of plywood drilled with a hole slightly larger than the coring bit. Holding the guide over the desired hole location in the tile, slowly start drilling, starting from the front of the tile. Montolit makes excellent coring and cutting bits for Glass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRTFzJ990Hk

Important – Fixtures, such as frameless shower doors, are heavy. Fixtures that rest directly on the glass tile will eventually break the tile. Prevent stress transfer from the fixture to the glass tile by securing anchors to the structure of a wall.

Cleaning – For routine cleaning, use any non-abrasive cleaning Glass or tile (ammonia and water, vinegar and water, etc.). Hard scale and soap residue can be safely cleaned with baking soda and vinegar mixture. Rinse thoroughly.